Tuesday, December 27, 2011
YouTube Video
Monday, November 14, 2011
Wednesday, November 9, 2011
Everest and the South Col
Pumori in the morning
Chillin' in Kathmandu
I will stay until Monday, the 14th, by which time everyone should already be home or well on their way there.
It has been a wondrous trip, despite the frustrations of the last several days. With the invaluable aid of our sherpa guide, Kami Sherpa, and in spite of various illnesses and maladies, all of us made it to Gorak Shep (17,300'); most of us made it out to Everest Base Camp (17,600'), and up Kala Patthar(18,200'), establishing new altitude Personal Records in doing so.
Six of our ten were fortunate enough to achieve the summit of Imja Tse (20,305'), the first real Himalayan peak any of us had ever successfully climbed. I suspect that for some in our group, there will be others yet to come.
Last, in bad weather and uncomfortable conditions we made a rapid descent all the way from Imja Tse Base Camp to Lukla, engineered our own Yak-assisted extraction from that travel choke point, then arranged our own helicopter rescue from a make-shift LZ 15 miles off the main Khumbu trekking route.
Today, nine days after the weather initially clamped down on the Khumbu, at last report well over 1000 Trekkers still await succor from Lukla.
In the course of doing all that, over the 24 days we spent in the Khumbu, we logged over 41,000 vertical feet of ascent. I haven't yet scaled off the total mileage, but I suspect it will be somewhere north of 100 miles. No one was lost, no one was hurt, and illness, though present, did not for the most part prevent us from accomplishing our goals.
Truly, it was Good Fun in the Himalaya.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Tuesday, November 8, 2011
Our next evac
Back together again in Kathmandu
Today Mark (K), Sue Dimin and Marie Gibson go home; Dick Durant left last night. Today will be a day of re-organizing packs, getting laundry done, and confirming airline reservations for those stragglers who arrived here yesterday. These are pleasant chores in comparison to the uncertainties and anxieties of getting out of the mountains, and I look forward to them with anticipation.
It appears that we may have left some gear behind in the confusion of our various evacs. A full bag of climbing gear can't be located this morning, and I seem to have left my trekking poles in Lami Danda, but in perspective, those seem to be relatively manageable issues.
Expect more later, as I have time to absorb it all, but right now I can't seem to concentrate on much except the plate of fried eggs and black coffee that was just put in front of me.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Friday, November 4, 2011
Lukla, Day...something...4, maybe??
Mark Koss opted to leave for Jiri today, hooking up with another party of high-speed hikers aiming to do the 58 mile, six day trek in three, hoping to be in Kathmandu by Monday. The rest of us still do too, but by aircraft rather than on foot. We'll see who wins that bet, but either way, it's good fun in the Himalaya.
Once below Lukla, access to Internet and e-mail will be very unreliable. I will post whenever possible, but may not have the opportunity until late next week. We are healthy, well-funded, and there is no reason to have concern for our safety. Many other stranded Trekkers are doing the same, so we will not be alone on the trail.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Thursday, November 3, 2011
Lukla, Day 3
Please keep us in your thoughts and the kharma flowing east. (-:
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Wednesday, November 2, 2011
Night 2 in Lukla
We have lined up a Russian 24 seat transport helicopter for tomorrow, but it too is weather dependent. At least we will now be first in queue for the helicopter instead of 800th or so in queue for a seat on a fixed- wing aircraft when they start flying again.
On the plus side: we have rooms in a lodge (some don't, already) and food is still plentiful (though Starbucks ran out of chocolate chip cookies tonight - I had to make do with coconut); we are dry, and we have a couple more days to wait before we are in danger of missing our international airline connections.
So, things could be worse. We continue to hope for a break in the weather tomorrow, at least enough to get our chopper in. Keep the positive thoughts coming.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Tuesday, November 1, 2011
The last night in Lukla for our porters
Lukla, Nepal
Our scheduled flight is tomorrow, so we can only hope for a break in the weather tonight so planes can land in the morning. Please send us your best wishes - can't hurt, might help.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Monday, October 31, 2011
Oct 31; Namche Bazaar, Nepal
The problem is, today was cloudy and no planes got in or out of Lukla. Unless it clears tomorrow, there will start to be a massive backlog of anxious Trekkers wait-listed for every available flight. We may be among them.
Today's route, for me, is one of the most quintessentially Himalayan trails in the Solu Khumbu. From our lodge in Pangboche it took us down-river a few miles, then up the ridge to Tyengboche, then plunged crazily back down to the river again, shedding about 1400 feet in a mile.
From there it was across the river and up again, steeply, to our lunch place at Sanasa, and then, finally, a lovely rising traverse along a trail hung precariously on the west side-hill of the Dudh Koshi, shrouded in mountain mist, all the way to Namche. This trail defines Nepali flat: a little bit up, then a little bit down. Repeat.
With access again to banks and ATM's, frenzied shopping ensued, as this will be our last day in this trading cross-roads of the Khumbu.
Tomorrow, one final day of 6 to 9 hours work should see us in Lukla. There we shall wait, until the mountain and weather gods allow us to leave.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Oct 30; Pangboche, Nepal, 13,275'
Nepal is a country of contrasts.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Sunday, October 30, 2011
Oct. 29: Imja Tse Base Camp
It was pretty easy going at first... for about 10 minutes. Then, the trail leapt upward crazily steep, and for the next four hours and about 2500' we picked our way through scree, boulders, and along ledges that must have been terribly exposed, but fortunately it was too dark to see. Ahead and upward stretched a line of twinkling headlamps, until they merged with the twinkling stars themselves.
Shortly after dawn we reached "crampon place" where we finally stepped off the hateful rock at the very top of a sharp ended ridge (the last 30' "protected" with a loose and worn out polypropylene hand line) and on to blessed glacial snow. We fitted our crampons and roped up into two rope teams of 4, and for the next hour threaded our way through a field of open crevasses, actually stepping over one gap about 3' wide.
At the base of the head wall we traded ice axes for ascenders, and spent the next hour or so jugging ourselves up 100 meters of 60 degree snow and ice to the summit ridge.
Once on the summit ridge we faced another 30 minutes of jumaring up the knife edge ridge to the summit, the slopes plunging away on either side at more than 60 degree for hundreds of feet.
And finally, on the dining room table-sized summit, stunning views of Ama Dablam to the south, Cholatse and Taboche to the west, the massive Lohtse Shar and Lohtse herself to the north, and 8500 meter Makalu standing guard to the East, all seeming so close as to be touchable. Only Everest is missing from this panoply of Himalayan giants, hidden by the closeness of sister Lohtse.
Successful climbers included Jim Ronning, Donovan Pacholl, Mark Koss, Mark Rosolowski, Sandra Volk, and Dick Durant. Time up: 08:30; time Down: 04:00; elevation gain Base Camp to summit: 3,400'; summit elevation: 20,305'.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Oct 28: Chunking, Nepal, 15,705'
The afternoon passed with inspection, sorting and checking of our gear, and running down missing or forgotten pieces at the various gear shops that have sprung up here in the last few years, but mainly enjoying the sun and recovering our strength from the exertions of the last few days and what I hope are the remnants of our URI's.
Tomorrow we advance to Base Camp and, if all goes well, to the summit the following nite.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Oct 27: Imja Tse Base Camp, 16,800'
Climbing routines and procedures have been practiced.
We are fed and are in our sleeping bags trying to get some rest, if not actual sleep.
It is snowing, but we can see stars through the flurries.
Tonight, at 0200, we go.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Friday, October 28, 2011
Almost There!
Erin Koss
Wednesday, October 26, 2011
Dingboche, Nepal, 14,485
Regrettably, our group has developed some upper respiratory conditions that, while not life threatening and currently being treated, have left some of us a little too depleted to make the climb. Final decisions will be made tomorrow, but it is clear that some of us will remain here at Hotel Bright Star, while the rest will advance on to Chukung, where we will meet our climbing guides.
Cellular service and Internet will be very sporadic or non-existent for the next three day, but I will post if I can. Meanwhile, enjoy the following picture of our objective, Imja Tse, taken this evening from the patio of Hotel Bright Star, in beautiful Downtown Dingboche.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Tuesday, October 25, 2011
View from Kala Patthar,Nepal, 18,300'
A 120 degree panoramic view of the mountains surrounding EBC
Gorak Shep, Nepal, 17,100'
But my, how this high hamlet has changed since I was here last in 2006! An Internet cafe; a
a solar array; cell service; at least five new buildings. All this in a village that a mere five years ago consisted of only two permanent structures and was one of the remotest and least hospitable habitations on the planet.
Technology has come to the Khumbu.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Sunday, October 23, 2011
LobucheNepal
Every one is reasonably healthy, but there is very limited Internet access here. More later.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Pheriche, Nepal, 4280m/14,042'
by a dedicated group of volunteer medical professionals expert in treating mountain and altitude related illnesses. Today we learned, once again, that when you need them you are damn glad they are here.
By now, at over 13,000', a couple of us are coping with mild upper respiratory issues, which this morning, in the wee hours as these things always happen, prompted us to divert from our schedule and split our group in order to allow one party to hurry ahead to this wonderful clinic to obtain advice, and allow the other to delay their departure from Tyengboche a few hours and advance more slowly with
ailing members.
Advice was relayed by radio, appropriate steps were taken, and the two parties were able to reunite before dark here in Pheriche, everyone feeling much improved.
We were very glad to support the work of this fine group through purchase of their logo t-shirts and direct donations, since they charged us nothing for their help and advice. All such proceeds go toward the purchase of medicine and equipment to keep this invaluable service available to the people of this region, as they have done since 1973.
Tomorrow we will advance to Laboche at about 16,000', once again together as a team, thanks in no small part to the docs at HRA-Pheriche.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Friday, October 21, 2011
Tyengboche Monastery, 3860m/12600'
But... just as we arrived, at 14:30 and after 6 hours of soggy trekking, the clouds cleared and blessed us with our first view of Mt. Everest, hiding behind her 8000m modesty skirt, the Lohtse Wall.
To her right stands her 8500m sister, Lohtse; on her left and hidden almost entirely by The Wall, stands little 7800m Nuptse.
A few miles off to the southeast rises the mother mountain, beautiful Ama Dablam. And nestled between this sisterhood of giants, almost too small to be noticed, is our diminutive objective, tiny Imja Tse at 6200m, hiding like a child in a roomful of adults.
This, then, is the panorama that greeted us, like a gift from Buddha himself, as we arrived at Tyengboche monastery.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Thursday, October 20, 2011
Namche Bazaar, Nepal; Thursday, 20 Oct.
Then, on to the less pretty village of Shyangboche at 3720m/12,200' where the old gravel airstrip is once again operating, (receiving a single fixed-wing flight each day, the pride of Tara Air), and to the non-existant village of Jaro, which the map says is at 3925m/12,875' but which we found no sign of other than a dilapidated gompa at roughly that elevation.
We closed the loop with a bone-crunching descent of about 1000' back down to our lodge in Namche, where we spent the balance of our rest day cruising the stalls of the local merchants, looking for bargains on locally made textiles and black-market counterfeit climbing gear.
Tomorrow we will reach the famous Buddhist monastery of Tyengboche, where we will make offerings to the monks there and seek their blessing of our venture on Imja Tse.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Wednesday, October 19, 2011
Nam he Bazaar, Nepal; Wednesday, 19 Oct
I sit now in the hotel's dining room, rapidly filling with hungry travelers, eager to place their orders for Dahl Bhat (rice and lentils) or mo mo's (pot stickers). The fire is lit to ward off the gathering chill of the approaching night. It is cloudy now, but we hope for clear skies in the morning for our very first views of Thomserku, Ama Dablam and, of course, Mt. Everest.
It is time to eat, and to enjoy the camaraderie of this international group; from where I sit I hear French, German and Australian accents, but right next to me, not 10' away, sit a group from Seattle.
It is truly a small world.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Phakding, Nepal; 2610m / 8740'
After, he led us to his house at Syangma, a thousand feet above the river on the steep and heavily forested west slope of the gorge. There, we enjoyed sweet milk tea in the lovely dining room of his traditional Sherpa home, as he told us stories of his climbing career.
On parting, he graciously presented us all with katas, the snowy white silk scarves that symbolize welcome and best wishes for all visitors to Nepal. It is truly said that no one leaves Nepal with a cold neck.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Tuesday, October 18, 2011
Phakding, Nepal; 2610m / 8740'
After, he led us to his house at Syangma, a thousand feet above the river on the steep and heavily forested west slope of the gorge. There, we enjoyed sweet milk tea in the lovely dining room of his traditional Sherpa home, as he told us stories of his climbing career.
On parting, he graciously presented us all with katas, the snowy white silk scarves that symbolize welcome and best wishes for all visitors to Nepal. It is truly said that no one leaves Nepal with a cold neck.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Monday, October 17, 2011
From Lukla...finally
It has been six years since I was last here. Things have changed. There is cell service. There is a rocking Irish bar pouring draft Guiness. I am in a Starbucks, sipping a Flat White, and blogging from their free Wi-Fi. I'm not sure I like all that change, but I'm pretty sure I'll get used to it.
Tomorrow we start north, with a quick side trip to the nearby village of Syangma, where a few years ago one of our group, Ken Stober, funded the building of a bridge over the Dhud Koshi, thereby saving the children of that village a daily walk of several hours to get to school on the other side of the river. Good stuff, good karma.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Sunday, October 16, 2011
2nd Day in Kathmandu
Dateline: Kathmandu, Nepal
First, Pashupatinath, a Hindu site of ceremonial cremations on funeral pyres along the holy Bagmati River, which flows into the even holier Ganges River.
Then, the medieval town of Bhaktapur, one of the original three kingdoms of the Kathmandu Valley, featuring palaces and temples dating to the 12th century, and a lifestyle dedicated to the preservation of traditional cultural ways and skills; a Nepali Williamsburg, VA.
Last, a visit to Bodhnath, the largest Buddhist stupa in Nepal, third largest in the world, a captivating and tranquil place.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Saturday, October 15, 2011
From Kathmandu, Nepal
Someone asked me the other day what Kathmandu smelled like. I had forgotten, but now I remember: It smells like sandalwood incense, marigolds and Daphne. And also like diesel exhaust, concrete dust, and over-ripe bananas. Like cooking oil, saffron and butter candles, and sometimes like fermenting garbage. And now and then, like weed. An odd mix, but I like it.
Oops...about that "day finally coming to an end" thing earlier?...nope. 2:00am now, wide awake, re-packing gear.
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
We have arrived in Kathmandu . . .
Friday, October 14, 2011
From S. Korea
Next stop is Kathmandu, but right now...breakfast, stat
Namaste,
Jim Ronning
Arrival in Korea
Sunday, October 9, 2011
GPS Waypoints
https://sites.google.com/site/imjatse27n86e/misc-3
Tuesday, October 4, 2011
Satellite Phone Update
Monday, October 3, 2011
10 days to departure
I will be reminding our group of this blog site in the next couple days, so I expect blogging activity to increase as others share their last minute thoughts.
Meanwhile, Mark Koss has added a regional weather link to the website, so we can all check it compulsively and fret about weather conditions in Lukla.
Good cyber-fun.
Sent from my I-Phone...
Best Regards,
Jim Ronning
Sunday, July 24, 2011
Satellite Phone
Link to the phone . . .
Tuesday, June 21, 2011
Weight Reduction Questions
Saturday, June 4, 2011
Recent Imja Tse Information
Notes from a conversation with an RMI guide about his recent trip to Imja Tse
M Koss