Oct 31; Namche Bazaar, Nepal

Fairly whooshing down the canyons and gorges of the rushing Imja Khola and the churning Dudh Koshi, we are at Namche again tonight, just one day from Lukla, where we hope, perhaps in vain, to fly out on the 2nd.

The problem is, today was cloudy and no planes got in or out of Lukla. Unless it clears tomorrow, there will start to be a massive backlog of anxious Trekkers wait-listed for every available flight. We may be among them.

Today's route, for me, is one of the most quintessentially Himalayan trails in the Solu Khumbu. From our lodge in Pangboche it took us down-river a few miles, then up the ridge to Tyengboche, then plunged crazily back down to the river again, shedding about 1400 feet in a mile.

From there it was across the river and up again, steeply, to our lunch place at Sanasa, and then, finally, a lovely rising traverse along a trail hung precariously on the west side-hill of the Dudh Koshi, shrouded in mountain mist, all the way to Namche. This trail defines Nepali flat: a little bit up, then a little bit down. Repeat.

With access again to banks and ATM's, frenzied shopping ensued, as this will be our last day in this trading cross-roads of the Khumbu.

Tomorrow, one final day of 6 to 9 hours work should see us in Lukla. There we shall wait, until the mountain and weather gods allow us to leave.

Namaste,
Jim Ronning